We ate at sixteen places over four months. We ordered ruskie at every one. This is what we found.

The criterion

Ruskie. The benchmark. Potato and cheese filling, well-seasoned, in dough that isn’t thick enough to be bread. Served with fried onion and, if you want it, sour cream on the side.

A place that can’t do ruskie right can’t do anything right.

The top three

Pierożki u Vincenta, Plac Mariacki. Small. Handmade. The dough is thinner than most. The filling is properly seasoned. There is always a queue. Join it.

Stary Kleparz market, early morning. Not a restaurant. Stalls inside the covered market on Rynek Kleparski sell pierogi by weight. Hot, fresh, cheap. This is how you eat pierogi on a Tuesday.

Gospoda Koko, Kazimierz. The kind of place your grandmother would eat at if your grandmother was a Krakowian who didn’t want to cook. The ruskie are heavy and filling and exactly right on a cold day.

The one to avoid

We’re not naming it. But if a place on Grodzka has photos of pierogi in the window and a price list in four languages, walk past it and keep walking.